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Pick Up The Fork

A Serious Eater's Guide to Buenos Aires and Beyond

Meat on the Street: The Only Street Food in Buenos Aires

Posted on January 9, 2011 26 Comments

What could be better than a big, fat, juicy, well done chorizo drenched in chimichurri and salsa criolla? One eaten at 6:30 in the morning off of a skanky, health violating food cart.  Unlike Latin American countries like Mexico or Brazil, Argentina does not have a booming street food culture.  Sure you can get facturas (pastries) before you enter the subway, or gobble down a pan relleno (stuffed cheesy bread) or giant-sized empanada at the Sunday San Telmo feria, but true food-tourists must flock directly to where the real action is – the mobile parrilla.

What to order?

Quite simple.  With only a handful of options, making the right ordering choice is no great task.

Choripan: Chorizo + Pan (Bread) = The best invention ever.
Bondiola: Pork shoulder, also in sandwich form
Vacíopan: Flank steak sandwich, typically with a thick layer of fat on one side
Morcipan: Morcilla (blood sausage) + Pan = Not the best invention ever. I’m not one for eating dried blood, but if you love it, bite into that dried blood condom.
Churrasquito: Grilled steak sandwich
Argenburger: Ever tried an Argentine hamburger? You aren’t missing out on much. It’s just a very thin meat PATY topped with salsa criolla and chimichurri.

Where to go?

Costanera Norte, Costanera Sur, Bosques de Palermo.  While you most of the stands probably offer similar quality street meat, a few puestos stand out from the rest.

Puestito del Tio
Dorrego entre Figueroa Alcorta y Avenida Lugones (Bosques de Palermo)

Probably the most famous one out of the bunch, diverse crowds congregate to taste these sandwiches filled with little beefs of heaven.  Try a bondiola for only AR$14 and make sure to top it off with plenty of the homemade salsas.

Alameda Sur
Av. Achaval Rodriguez, Costanera Sur (close to the southern entrance of the Reserva Ecologica)

Some claim that this top-notch establishment serves the best choripan in the city.  What makes this chori better than the rest?  The slightly toasted bread, chimichurri sauce, and a textbook chorizo to bread ratio.

Mi Sueño
Av Costanera Sur, puesto 11

Hungry parrilla lovers lineup to taste this bondiola that is flavored with oregano, white wine and ají molido (similar to red pepper flakes).

Carrito Polo *Not the real name
Dorrego y Libertador, Palermo

This carrito, located right behind the polo fields, is well known by taxistas, workers, and those waiting for the 166 colectivo.  Open almost all the time, you can grab a choripan for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

El Parrillón
Avenida De los Italianos (near the Lola Mora fountain), Costanera Sur

For those who are loco for homemade salsas, this is your place.  Try the chimichurri (with some actual ají spice), salsa criolla and cucumber; celery and tomato; or a green onion mayo.  While this place may not be actually legal, or follow health and sanitation laws, I’d still bathe in the sauces.

El Cocacolero
Across the street from the Aeroparque, Costanera Norte

Stumble out of a Costanera boliche in the early hours of the morning with no taxi in sight.  “I thought this was Palermo,” you squeal, beginning to psych yourself up for the long brutal walk ahead filled with sketchballs, trannies and planes departing.  In the near distance, you spot smoke pouring into the sky.  As you walk a little closer, a small congregation of people huddle around the carrito, wearing sunglasses (at night) and with chimichurri stains on their deep V neck shirts, scarfing down massive vaciopan sandwiches. Ultimate satisfaction.

 

Author: ForkYou

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Filed Under: Culinary Tour, Palermo, PUTF, Raunchy Restaurant Review, Shit I Like Tagged With: Argentina, argentina street food, best food buenos aires, bondiola, Buenos Aires, buenos aires food truck, choripan, costanera, food truck buenos aires, parrilla, street food, street food buenos aires, traditional food argentina

Comments

  1. Anonymous says

    April 22, 2012 at 2:05 am

    Here you have another yankee guy talking about his experience with choripan: http://atexaninargentina.blogspot.com.ar/2007/11/choripanheaven-on-bun.html

    Reply
  2. Kerry from Boedo says

    November 20, 2011 at 5:04 pm

    Hi my name is Kerry and I am a vegan, where can I find a vegan choripan and a rifle to blow my brains out?

    Reply
    • MDO says

      July 11, 2012 at 11:47 am

      Dont go to Argentina …. travel to India instead … but if you must go, the Argentines have good salads and you can order sides of really great grilled veggies anywhere or pappas fritas provensal! Try the provoleta (grilled cheese)…good luck!

      Reply
  3. San Telmo Loft says

    November 20, 2011 at 11:42 am

    Me, too. Love this post.

    Reply
    • Ilyssa says

      August 21, 2013 at 2:23 pm

      Hi! I just finished your book and I rlealy enjoyed it. You have quite a following among food bloggers in the Philippines and we hope your travels lead you here sometime soon.

      Reply
    • low cost life insurance providers says

      August 30, 2013 at 12:54 pm

      That’s an astute answer to a tricky question

      Reply
    • Mary says

      October 17, 2013 at 10:55 pm

      sounds lloevy! Funnily egonuh, I had Telmo Rodriguez’s godello and mencia at the Vinoteca tasting delicious. Yet another place to add to my list of places to visit next time I’m in CA!

      Reply
    • health insurance quotes says

      November 9, 2013 at 2:56 am

      I had no idea how to approach this before-now I’m locked and loaded.

      Reply
  4. Frances Ren Huang says

    November 20, 2011 at 11:00 am

    I love this post. :)

    Reply
  5. Anonymous says

    June 28, 2011 at 11:37 pm

    About Buenos Aires street food, I like to share my thoughts with you:
    http://www.puntobiz.com.ar/noticia/articulo/54719/Al_paso_bueno_bonito_y_barato.html
    G.

    Reply
  6. Street Foodie says

    January 14, 2011 at 4:58 am

    Wow great guide to Buenos Aires street food, I want to plan a trip to South American some time in the next couple of years so will have to bookmark this site.

    The choripan looks brill.

    Reply
  7. Ana says

    January 11, 2011 at 6:24 pm

    And you can get your choripan at all train stations as well.

    Reply

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  7. Algunas leyes sobre el choripán – Derecho en Zapatillas says:
    March 16, 2015 at 11:04 am

    […] sandwich argentino que también genera fascinación para los “gringos”, como cuenta el blog de Allie. Según el código civil (artículo 2618, olores de vecindad), si el vecino tiene parrilla en la […]

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  8. 36 horas en Buenos Aires | mi vida en mi casa says:
    October 28, 2014 at 1:02 pm

    […] que está buena hacer es comer un choripán en la costanera: mucha gente lo critica, pero mi blogger gastronómica favorita, yanqui, lo aprecia mucho, así que creo que vale la […]

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  10. The Best Buenos Aires Restaurants For Cheap Bastards | Pick Up The Fork says:
    March 21, 2013 at 2:12 pm

    […] Mobile Parrillas – Street Food Central San Telmo, Bosques de Palermo, Costanera […]

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  11. Put on your sandwich gloves, it’s time to eat some sandwiches: Ten Favorite Sandwiches in Buenos Aires | Pick Up The Fork says:
    June 13, 2012 at 9:34 am

    […] CHORIPAN @ Any of  THESE carritos, Costaneras or THIS place on Carlos Calvo & Bolivar, San […]

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  12. Hot Date In Buenos Aires: Perfect Date Spots For Any Occasion | Pick Up The Fork says:
    April 10, 2012 at 12:12 am

    […] breath sniffing.  Or take a romantic stroll by the Costanera or park and hit up some of the best choripan stands in the […]

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  14. Carne! 7 budget parillas in Buenos Aires | Trading365.co.uk | Blog: Shopping Deals UK, Discount Codes, Price Comparisons, News & Reviews says:
    September 5, 2011 at 10:16 am

    […] Take a stroll along the Costanera Norte or Costanera Sur on a weekend where hundreds of Argentines escaping the city smog to enjoy a steak sandwich from one of the many parillas. Hygeine levels may compare to you average NYC hot dog stand, but the novelty factor and budget prices win over the best of us in the end. Find out more about these mobile parillas and which one to choose here. […]

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