“Ideal para gente cool de entre 25 y 40 años,” this is how Planeta Joy describes Caseros (Av. Caseros 486), a “bodegón chic” in San Telmo. If this is the case, then I guess I am sort of obligated to try it as my ultimate goal in life is to be una persona cool that lunches at not just any old bodegón, but one that is oxymoronically chic. Trendy buzz words aside, Caseros is a place you venture to when you feel like eating well without compromising on ambience.
The restaurant is located near Parque Lezama, on Avenida Caseros, which used to be one of the more wealthier streets in Buenos Aires back in the 1800s when it housed hot filthy rich Brit businessmen who ran the city’s railroads.
Enter the simply decorated, naturally lit restaurant and it becomes immediately apparent that this place shares a love for quality food. No cheesy gimmicks here, the spotlight shines on vibrantly-colored produce that centerpieces each table, showcasing the fruits and vegetables. Lofted above the semi-open kitchen are crates fill with fresh produce (red peppers, green apples, eggplants, lemons, garlic and red onions) so diners can see the initial product in its most natural form.
I have dreams about this freshly baked focaccia bread, served warm right out of the oven. Topped with roasted cherry tomatoes, red onions, herbs and a pinch of sea salt, I’d make the journey all the way from my Palermo bubble to buy it in a large quantities. In addition to the focaccia, perfectly baked white and wheat bread are brought to the table alongside an herbed butter and the most delicious melt-in-your-mouth (clichés are a bitch) paté I’ve had in a long ass time. It felt like a Torrontés-kinda-afternoon, so I was a bit disappointed that they didn’t serve this by the glass, but I went with a Sauvignon Blanc instead and life went on. On to the mains…
Ravioles stuffed with mushrooms, ricotta and spinach. Fresh tomato and basil sauce, shaved parm reg
Salmon Tapenade served inside pastry dough with roasted vegetables
The ravioli sauce had light herby flavors that combined perfectly with the ricotta stuffing. The little details really made the dish shine – flavorful tomatoes, a sprinkle of fresh basil and a side dish filled with shaved parmigiano reggiano. Only complaint? The portion was much smaller than the size of the salmon dish. Luckily, I ordered the white salmon (more for me, I win) and it was a great choice, cooked to perfection. At first, I had mixed feelings that it was surrounded by a thick pie-like crust, not what I had expected, but for the most part, besides the bottom where the dough became soggy, the textures worked well together. I enjoyed the roasted vegetables, but when eaten with the fish, it became almost a bit too salty and oily. I still ate almost all of it.
The annoying food watcher that I am, I couldn’t help but notice the a salmon salad and a dish of tagliatelle with shrimp at another table… that will be my next order. The whole lunch cost about AR$120, 2 glasses of wine + tip. Fairly priced in terms of quality and overall goodness. I’ll be back for more even though it is ALLL THE WAY in San Telmo.
Caseros
Av. Caseros 486, San Telmo
Ron Smyth says
As usual, these posts are more about your blog than about the food. I found it rather nice, but nothing to write home about. After so many years living here I love to find a place that serves something off the usual beef-pasta menu. But really, Caseros wouldn’t make it in Toronto. Overcooked shrimp, lousy balance of herbs and spices etc. I will go back because I live in San Telmo and I can afford it, but … nothing special.
Anonymous says
Oh my gosh, I am soooooooooooo hungry. That looks so good.
Sean Wilkins says
Great post. I lived on the block just behind there last year, and Caseros was my go-to neighborhood restaurant.
Lezama, the bodegon right on the park, was my favorite in the city too.
tom roth says
I have been enjoying reading your blog. It would be a lot easier to keep up with if you had RSS. Any chance you can turn that on. Thanks.
razalba says
Tom, not sure what happened to the RSS, but it should be working now
Angela says
Nice review. Great photos. Caseros is one of our favorites in the neighborhood. There are two other places worth trying on the same block: Club Social Delux and Hierbabuena. It’s one of the most picturesque blocks in San Telmo…. and you can eat outside with no buses.
razalba says
Thanks for the recommendations, I’ll have to check those two places out.
Hamish says
I’ve been looking for some more places to have lunch while I am working in San T, looks like a winner.
Ed B says
Great post that has my mouth watering. I’m putting this spot on my short list for when I visit BA.
Pearl says
enjoyed the photo album….nice review!
Katie says
I’m loving your food photography as of late! The natural light at this spot really helped a lot, too. The decor in this place looks very shabby chic – I especially like the fruit and veg centerpieces. I usually stay with friends in San Telmo when I visit BsAs, so I think I’ll have to give this place a try next time I’m in town.
razalba says
thanks, a nice fancy new camera has helped me out a bit :)
if you are in san telmo, I would recommend checking it out for a weekday lunch – the fruit and veg centerpieces are my favorite part!