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Pick Up The Fork

A Serious Eater's Guide to Buenos Aires and Beyond

The Argentine Food Diaries: A Porteño Eating Challenge

Posted on January 11, 2012 42 Comments

messi asado

THE CHALLENGE: 

TO EAT LIKE AN ARGENTINE, one day of consuming the most typical fare.

A rundown of the most popular Argentine foods including breakfast, lunch, merienda, dinner and dessert. I asked some die-hard Argie culinary traditionalists what they ate on a daily basis, and these were the results…

Disclaimer: It’s important to clarify that this is a massive generalization of the dishes Argentines eat. While many people do not actually eat like this daily, a lot still do. Also, this is based on an Argentine boy diet, because as we all know, most Argentine girls don’t actually eat.

DESAYUNO

Option #1 – Medialunas

You can’t just hop to any old café and order medialunas; there is a science behind it.  You need the soft doughy insides covered in a flaky shell.  Stale medialunas with weird lemon essence are a total turn off, while warm fresh out of the oven medialunas induce a spontaneous erection.

Where to go? For the best medialunas in Buenos Aires get your culo to Alimentari (multiple locations), Lucio (Güemes 4001, Palermo), Guber (multiple locations).

Option #2 – Tostados con jamón y queso o tostadas con mermelada, queso crema y dulce de leche

Ham and cheese toasted sandwich or toast with jam, cream cheese and DULCE DE LECHE — these two delicious morning meals are what makes Argentines wake up on the right side of the bed. Often, they are sold as some kind of deal with a café con leche or cortado and fresh squeezed orange juice.

Where to go? Stick with the classics. It’s pretty hard to go wrong with toast (although many places do), so my advice is to head to a Café Notable and start your day with some beautiful porteño heritage.

*Keep in mind… In Buenos Aires, breakfast is not the most important meal of the day. Don’t expect eggs-bacon (unless it’s a weekend brunch) because many locals think eating EGGS and BACON in the morning is INSANELY HEAVY and disgusting… although it’s perfectly normal to eat a cheesy ham mega sandwich or bread smothered in DULCE DE LECHE. I’m just sayin’ …

ALMUERZO

Option #1 – Milanesa con Fritas

milanesaYou may be thinking fried meat (chicken or beef), flattened, breaded and deep fried and served with ham, cheese and sauce, will put you right into a food coma, but this popular lunchtime dish can be seen on menus across the country. While the traditional napolitana has tomato sauce or tomatoes, ham and cheese, there are a myriad of milanesa variations: a la suiza (white sauce), suprema de pollo (chicken breast), or my personal favorite for the grossest combination, a la Maryland, with bananas, bacon and shoestring potatoes. Hot tip: Order it a caballo with a fried egg on top. Ask for extra packets of salsa golf and you may be confused for a local. And you should always watch out for the mila-pizza. milanesa1

Where to go? For the best milanesas in Buenos Aires, you can’t go wrong if you go to Don Ignacio (Rivadavia 3439, Almagro), Albamonte (Corrientes 6735, Chacarita), Hermann (Santa Fe 3902, Palermo) and El Obrero (Caffarena 64, La Boca). El Buen Libro (Reconquista 631) and Café Paulin (Sarmiento 635) serve a monster milanga mila-sandwich. Careful with ordering a milanesa in a shithole, your stomach may hate you for it. Too many times I have gotten a big bite of tasteless and rubbery or pink and raw.  Check out (outdated) Proyecto Napola Tour, a genius of a blog that is on a quest to find the best milanesa napolitana in Buenos Aires. (Photo: Recetas Argentinas)

Option #2 – Pizza al corte

_MG_1104Did you know most Argentines are crazy about pizza? It’s probably one of their favorite foods. But in Buenos Aires, pizza is done a little differently: THICK crust, oozing with cheese, very little sauce, and hamming it up with toppings. Muzzarella, napolitana, fugazetta = life.

Where to go? For a slice of porteño’s finest, head to hometown favorites like El Guerrin, El Palacio de la Pizza, La Mezzetta, Angelin and El Cuartito. For my personal favorite pizza, some which stray from the Argentine variety, check out my Buenos Aires pizza guide.

Option #3 – CHORIPÁN!

choripanI’ve said it many times, and I’ll say it again: if it were socially acceptable, I’d marry a choripán. It’s a perfect union between chorizo and bread, smothered with chimichurri, smashed down and shoved inside your face hole.

Where to go?  Lo de Freddy, forever.

Option #4 – Empanadas

osobuco empanadas

Empanada making is an art form, and so is empanada eating. But there’s something I want to know: How many empanadas do you need to eat to hit that sweet spot of satisfaction? 3? 5? 12?

Where to go? La Cocina, Na Serapia, La Aguada, La Paceña, Peron Peron or any of these spots on my best of Buenos Aires empanada list.

Option #5 – Sandwiches de Miga

migaWhere to go? No where. I cannot keep a clear conscious recommending anyone to lunch a soggy miga sandwich. Sorry. Not. Sorry.

Quick TARTA shoutout! Don’t be confused with the translation, this ain’t no piece of cake. Tartas are more like savory tarts or pies, think a slice of pastry crust filled with flavors like cheese and pumpkin, ham and cheese, tuna and olives, etc. etc. etc.

MERIENDA

#1 Galletitas and Mate (Cookies + Crackers, Mate tea)

The type of merienda you eat is very telling of what kind of porteño you are.  Are you the mate and galletita type? Do you prefer a sweet merienda? Savory merienda? Wine-beer-picada merienda? YANQUIS: Wanna know the secret to becoming semi-porteño and eating dinner at 10pm? M-E-R-I-E-N-D-A in the afternoon.

Where to go? Put on some flowy, hempy striped genie pants, grab some mate, Toddy cookies, alfajor, crackers and a porro, and head over to Plaza Francia for an earthy merienda eating with the other hipteños (porteño + hippies).  While most cafés don’t offer mate in house, Cumaná (Rodriguez Peña 1149, Recoleta) and Las Cabras (Fitz Roy y El Salvador) does an afternoon mate table service.

Option #2 – Vino or Aperitivo + Picada

picadaforonePerhaps you prefer the boozy afternoon snack? Like a wonderful glass (or bottle) of wine accompanied by our favorite meat and cheese platters. Me too.

Where to go? Pain et Vin for some wine and cheese, El Refuerzo (Chacabuco 872) for some picadas + afternoon aperitivos, or Oporto Almacén for some Argie comfort food tapas. 

Option #3 – Café con leche y algo dulce

chocotortaCakes, pies, cookies, scones, muffins, BRING ON DA SWEET STUFF. Get in the merienda mood with an absolute afternoon sugar rush.

Where to go? Chocotorta at Loreto Bar, Brique cakes (like marroc) from Punto Letra, cakes from Yeite, a fancy merienda at Alvear Hotel or a classic merienda at Las Violetas.

CENA

Option #1 – Parrilla (BBQ)donjulio

There’s no doubt that locals are serious about their meat and they keep it simple with just some salt, a grill and of course the carne.  For a variety of meats, order the parrillada, a plate filled with various cuts. Chimichurri and salsa criolla are pretty much the only condiments allowed to put on top; you will be shunned as a blasphemous loco if you ask for any other sauces. On the side? Simple salads: lettuce-carrot-tomato; arugula-Parmesan cheese; tomato-onion-lettuce; add an extra bonus of an overcooked boiled egg and you’re in for a treat.

Where to go? While I might have attackers come stab me with a fork in the forehead if I reveal some of my favorite “secret” barrio parrillas (that really aren’t very secret anymore, but I don’t want to break their food trust), I can publicly endorse Parrilla Peña (Rodriguez Peña 682, Recoleta) because I like the old school bodegón neighborhood feel.  There is still more Spanish spoken than English at the tables and the meat is always grilled to perfection. Lo De Paka (Congreso 2011, Belgrano), Pobre Luis (Arribeños 2393, Belgrano), La Brigada (Estados Unidos 465), Don Julio (Guatemala y Gurruchaga, Palermo) are other solid choices if you are looking to get your meat on at traditional restaurants. Or just check out this list of my favorites.

Option #2 – PastaIMG_9950

Boisterous in their Italian heritage, Argentines love their pasta. That’s why on pretty much every menu some sort of fideos and stuffed pastas are a must order: linguini-ravioli-gnocchi(on the 29th of the month). Generally, the sauces are sold on the side, like pomarola, 4quesos, salsa blanca, bolognesa, crema de hongos.

Where to go? La Locanda, Mauro.It (11 de Septiembre 2465, Belgrano), Maria Fedele, Cucina Paradiso for that Italian stallion amore. For the Argentine-Italian variety, Almagro family joint Pierino is always a solid option, while Salgado Alimento has been pleasing Villa Crespians for years.

POSTRE

Option #1 – HeladoIMG_0661

Where to go? I can personally blame Jauja (Cerviño 3901) for a 10 pound weight gain. Rapanui (Arenales y Azcuenaga) is also the tops, as is Occo (Cordoba y Dorrego), I’ve also been on a LadoBueno kick lately. Or try all of my favorite heladerías on this list. If I am trying to be super Argentine, I’ll order dulce de leche, and only dulce de leche. If I’m feeling a bit more adventurous, my top go-to flavors are chocolate suizo o amargo, marroc, frutos del bosque, and perhaps for the wild card, dulce de leche con brownie.

Option #2 – Flan Mixto, Vigilante, Arroz con LecheFlan-Mixto-from-Don-Julio

It’s not an Argentine dessert unless all of your teeth begin to decay, rot and fall out from utter sweetness. You’ll almost always find flan mixto (flan with dulce de leche and whipped cream), and Vigilante aka queso y dulce (cheese with sweet quince paste) on most menus, and you should probably order it.

A rundown of the most popular foods in Argentina, according to reading a shitload of porteño restaurant menus:

  • ASADO: meat, meat, meat. Whatever comes off the parrilla. Lots of innards – sweetbreads, blood sausage, intestines, kidneys, liver. Provoleta for some cheesy goodness.
  • Choripán
  • Milanesa
  • Empanadas
  • Pasta
  • Sandwiches de miga
  • Tartas & tortillas 
  • Lomito sandwich, bondiola sandwich, vaciopan sandwich (los primos del choripán)
  • Salads: Ensalada rusa, mixed salad with lettuce, tomato, onion
  • Papas fritas
  • Picada meat cheese platter
  • Panchos & Patys
  • Medialunas & facturas
  • Dulce de leche: Chocotorta, Flan Mixto, Alfajores, Helado
  • Regional: Locro, humita, tamales, chivito, curanto
  • Sauces: Chimichurri, salsa criolla, salsa golf, mayo, ketchup

Article updated January 2016.

Author: ForkYou

EAT IT:

Comments

Filed Under: Belgrano, Best Of List, Centro, Cheap Eats, Culinary Tour, Delivery, Food Porn, Palermo, PUTF, Raunchy Restaurant Review, Recoleta, San Telmo, Shit I Like, This Is Why You're Fat Tagged With: best restaurants buenos aires, breakfast in buenos aires, food in argentina, food in buenos aires, restaurant review buenos aires, typical argentine food, what argentines eat, where to eat buenos aires

Comments

  1. Craig Channell says

    June 25, 2016 at 1:22 pm

    For me, the best sandwiches de miga are at Dos Escudos, Montevideo and Quintana. Also the best masitas secas and finas.

    Reply
  2. Victoria says

    January 9, 2016 at 10:38 pm

    Hello!! I think one place you should try in ice cream is La Gruta in Belgrano. Unless you’ve done that already! http://www.heladeriagruta.com.ar/

    Reply
  3. Leo Doldán says

    January 9, 2016 at 12:27 am

    May I recommend you where to find the BEST (I do mean it) sandwiches de miga of the entire galaxy? Miriam, Valentín Alsina, Lanús Oeste, just 5 minutes crossing the Riachuelo.

    Reply
  4. lola says

    October 26, 2014 at 9:22 pm

    “because as we all know, most Argentine girls don’t actually eat” …???!!!! ehhh??? really?

    Reply
  5. Dylan says

    June 7, 2013 at 2:36 pm

    I 100% agree with you on the ice cream from Jauja! I used to live near their Federico Lacroze location and it was my go-to ice cream place. I have to say though that I was disappointed by Del Amenecer in San Telmo. Just moved to the area and was looking for some tips on good medialunas nearby so I Googled and found your recommendation. I liked that they used real honey, but they were really dense and not light and airy at all. What’s worse was the service – I went with my toddler and got her a hot chocolate and me a cafe con leche, and 4 medialunas. They refused to give me a break on the price as there was a special (cafe con leche + 2 medialunas for 20 pesos). Instead of switching out the cafe con leche for the hot chocolate and charging me for the difference in price between that and a coffee, they wanted to charge me as buying a hot chocolate + 2 individual medialunas, which ended up being 5 pesos more. I’ve taken my daughter to a ton of cafes and have never had any waiter NOT give me the special price. Very disappointed! Still looking for a good medialuna place in San Telmo…

    Reply
  6. how to pick up girls? says

    November 18, 2012 at 6:12 am

    The quick red wolf jumped over the lazy dog

    Reply
  7. Damian Hernaez says

    April 16, 2012 at 7:39 pm

    You left a pretty typical argentinian meal and that’s the “picada”. Usually served between 7 and 9, it consist of, usually, a meat and cheese platter with bread and served with beer or wine; It’s what I miss the most whenever I’m abroad.

    Reply
    • Daniel says

      April 16, 2012 at 7:44 pm

      I’ve been here 13 years and I’ve never heard of this “Picada”. Allie, have you heard of picada?

      Reply
    • No, Damian, simplemente no. says

      January 8, 2016 at 3:45 pm

      No, no lo es.

      Reply
  8. Agos says

    February 23, 2012 at 10:53 pm

    Buen post, coincido en que las medialunas de Alimentari son las más ricas de Buenos Aires.

    Reply
  9. Gordon says

    February 14, 2012 at 6:54 am

    Do you mind if I quote a couple of your articles as long as I provide credit and sources back to your webpage? Please let me know if this alright with you. Many thanks!

    Reply
  10. Jessica says

    February 13, 2012 at 12:11 am

    Jauja – try chocolate profunda and Sauco de la pasión (exclusivo). AWESomE

    Reply
  11. Paula De Caro says

    February 9, 2012 at 2:36 pm

    Loved your post! It certainly depicts how moest of us argies eat! On your second day you must include: empanadas y rogel in one of your meals!

    See you around!

    Reply
  12. Ramirez says

    February 9, 2012 at 2:02 pm

    Wow. Heavy! I invite you to check out the online delivery service, sinimanes.com to satisfy your latest Argentine dietary craving. Hmmm, online delivery…delicious.

    Reply
  13. Beto says

    February 7, 2012 at 3:15 pm

    Argies LAS PELOTAS! Argentinos… mas respeto por la tierra que te abre los brazos con cariño.

    Reply
    • Daniel says

      February 7, 2012 at 6:46 pm

      Beto, Argie es un término de cariño entre los ex-pats acá.

      Reply
  14. las artes says

    February 1, 2012 at 10:10 pm

    With so many parlors to choose from, you’ll have different opinions of which are the best heladerías in Buenos Aires. Creating this post is absoltely killing me to be honest because my absolute favorite was at Un Altra Volta combining several different flavors in a whole bucket. Nothing else compares. Say that to a Freddo fantastic and they’ll argue your ears off how there’s is the best. Close favorite to Un Altra Volta is the many local ice cream parlors I found just walking and discovering the city. Most were usually outside of the big city that I found to be the best.

    Reply
  15. Anonymous says

    January 27, 2012 at 11:17 pm

    Por si no fuiste se recomienda “La Farola de Nuñez” para probar la “milapizza”…una milanesa extrema del tamaño de una grande de muza. Al día de hoy es un misterio saber como la hacen…jaja. Saludos!

    Reply
    • forkyou says

      February 9, 2012 at 1:47 pm

      milapizza?!!! ufff suena peligroso

      Reply
  16. pedrofértil says

    January 23, 2012 at 4:05 pm

    check out Proyecto Napola (an A-Team with the sole purpose of finding the perfect milanesa)

    Reply
    • forkyou says

      January 23, 2012 at 5:48 pm

      Someone didn’t read the article carefully ;)

      Reply
      • pedrofértil says

        January 24, 2012 at 2:59 pm

        oh, my… sorry! Hey, we are still waiting for a good icecream post (or did I miss that too?). Have you been to Scannapieco (Av. Cordoba 4826)?

        Reply
  17. Andi of My Beautiful Adventures says

    January 20, 2012 at 11:54 pm

    Ummm I wish there was an Argie restaurant in my city!

    Reply
  18. Anonymous says

    January 12, 2012 at 9:54 pm

    Esta lista es exactamente lo que comía de niña, me hiciste llorar! Muchas gracias, apenas llegue a Buenos Aires, me voy a Jauja!

    Reply
  19. Paul Strobl says

    January 12, 2012 at 3:57 pm

    If you want a more refined milanesa, you can go here:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vE8JvN5Wqo

    Reply
  20. KarinaMartinezCarter (@KMartinezCarter) says

    January 12, 2012 at 1:29 pm

    There’s also a Jauja in Belgrano at Federico Lacroze 2239! The heladeria’s original location is in organic-loving El Bolson in the Patagonia Lake District. For those who haven’t been, the small town in/along the mountains is beautiful and more than worth a visit (for draws in addition to Jauja, though that’s a huge bonus).

    Reply
  21. Jonathan says

    January 12, 2012 at 10:22 am

    Thanks for the link! I do love a medialuna or three in the morning, but to Daniel’s point above, where are the papas/batatas fritas? Love your blog, will be back!

    Reply
  22. Daniel says

    January 11, 2012 at 8:43 pm

    As akin as this is to my diet whenever visiting the in-laws in Entre Ríos, there isn’t nearly enough starch or sugar, and that breakfast is far too hearty, even for a man. Also, I can see at least two vegetables next to that milanesa. That’s two vegetables too many. Don’t forget the flavourless cheese and/or jam in the merienda.

    Reply
  23. Anonymous says

    January 11, 2012 at 8:01 pm

    I think that this is a very poor telling a of a porteño’s meals…

    Reply
  24. Ana says

    January 11, 2012 at 7:27 pm

    I could murder a cuarto de helado right now!

    Reply
  25. Ngatto says

    January 11, 2012 at 6:37 pm

    buenisimo, Allie !! ya casi podemos llamarte porteña…

    Reply
  26. MyBeautifulAir says

    January 11, 2012 at 6:15 pm

    Proud to say that I’ve been here long enough that this post made my mouth water … there was definitely a time when it would have made me nauseous!

    Reply
    • TL says

      January 12, 2012 at 6:21 am

      My thoughts exactly!!! It took me over a year to “appreciate” a milanesa (empanadas igual!). I used to turn up my nose and bash them to no end and now, nearly 4 years later, I sometimes crave them…! I even stopped complaining about the pizza! It’s amazing what one can get used to. Kind of scary, really.

      Reply
  27. mariana says

    January 11, 2012 at 6:05 pm

    Las chicas comen: desayuno – mate amargo. almuerzo – una coca light y una tarta de calabaza. merienda – yogur ser, cena – un huevo duro con un tomate relleno con casancream light

    Reply
    • forkyou says

      January 11, 2012 at 6:26 pm

      jajaja si! a veces los fines de semana comen asado, pero solo una porcion de carne, medio chorizo y nada mas el resto del dia.

      Reply
  28. Anonymous says

    January 11, 2012 at 6:04 pm

    Las chicas comen: desayuno – mate amargo. almuerzo – una coca light y una tarta de calabaza. merienda – yogur ser, cena – un huevo duro (ahaha)

    Reply
  29. Marcos says

    January 11, 2012 at 3:19 pm

    I need to try Jauja nowwwww!!! (one more to my list)

    Reply
  30. Anonymous says

    January 11, 2012 at 3:18 pm

    I need to try Jauja nowwww!! :o)

    Reply
  31. Nacho Basail (@Nachee) says

    January 11, 2012 at 1:24 pm

    Now I’m Hungry… Hope my workplace’s catering have milanesas today :P

    Reply
  32. juliana says

    January 11, 2012 at 1:17 pm

    si lo vas a hacer durante dos dias, decime q te acompaño! jajaja

    Reply

Trackbacks

  1. THE MOST popular dish in Buenos Aires - NOLAchef says:
    November 12, 2013 at 9:20 am

    […] For places on where to find the best milanesas in BA check out this article by Ms. Lazar. […]

    Reply
  2. THE MOST popular dish in BA :: « NOLAchef says:
    February 22, 2012 at 1:53 pm

    […] places on where to find the best milanesas in BA check out this article by Ms. Lazar. Share […]

    Reply

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