Decades prior to BA’s craft beer and burger boom and before Asian-style hipster bars became a thing, Don Carlos stood on the iconic corner of Brandsen and del Valle Iberlucea, across from La Bombonera fútbol stadium, and served traditional Porteño comfort foods. From the simple decor, Don Carlos might appear to be just like any other barrio bodegón. But look closer, and you’ll discover the history and delicious foods inside this dining institution that just celebrated its 48th anniversary.
Running a restaurant in Buenos Aires ain’t easy. So keeping a restaurant open for nearly half of a century should be considered a remarkable feat. Don Carlos opened in 1970, surviving a dictatorship, financial crises, endless inflation, and all of the political, social, and economic insanity that happens every day in Argentina.
It’s truly a family affair at Don Carlos, which is owned by the Zinola family — Juan Carlos (Carlitos), his wife Marta Venturini, and their daughter Gaby. Carlitos takes over the front of the house and the parrilla while Marta and Gaby have control of the kitchen. Unlike most traditional Argentine cantinas, you probably won’t be given a menu. That’s right, you’ve entered Carlitos’ house, and it’s best experienced when you succumb to eat whatever he recommends.
A painting by artist Marta Minujin hangs in the restaurant and photos of regulars are scattered around the room. And not just the guys from the barrio, I’m talking international A-listers and local chefs, celebrities, politicians, and fútbol players (who I’d probably never recognize if they hadn’t told me). Francis Ford Coppola said this is his favorite place to eat in Buenos Aires. And so did celebrity chef Francis Mallmann, who took his pals, Anthony Bourdain (RIP TONY, you’re the greatest) and Gwyneth Paltrow on recent visits. (Carlitos says Gwyneth ate a bite of his matambrito, grilled pork flank — take THAT GOOP diet).
No two meals at Don Carlos are alike. Diners are first greeted by Carlitos and asked their hunger levels and what they feel like eating. Then, the rest is up to him and the kitchen, usually starting with a selection of appetizers that could include tomatoes with garlic, rolled matambre, empanadas, roasted red peppers, buñuelos, Spanish omelets, meatballs, and tuna salad. Next, the parrilla all-stars, grilled meats like chorizos, morcillas, sweetbreads, and bife de chorizo. My personal favorite comes out next, Marta’s homemade pasta: ravioli, sorrentinos, agnolotti, and rotoli.
Marta is the Argentine-Italian mother you always wanted. She cooks simple and delicious food from the heart with a huge smile plastered on her face. A few other fun facts about Marta? She loves watching the Food Network and gets inspiration from Ina Garten. #Ina+JeffreyForever<3
One of the house specialties, rotolo, also happens to share the same colors as the Italian flag. Fresh pasta sheets are topped with spinach, then rolled, boiled, cut into pieces, and finished in the oven with Béchamel, a ladle of red sauce and cheese to create lasagne-like nests.
I don’t advise anyone to dine alone at Carlitos. It’s the type of place where you want to try as many dishes as possible, especially cheese stuffed spinach pasta with cherry tomatoes and red onion. Simple, fresh, and so good. **SIDE NOTE APP PITCH: I got a great idea for an app. Hear me out. It’s a travel food app for food-loving solo travelers to hook up with other food-loving travelers so they can visit restaurants and order multiple dishes on the menu. Think of it as restaurant Tinder, minus the dating, since the central focus is on the food and not getting laid.
Who can say no to Gaby’s postres? Not I. When someone brings you beautiful flan AND passionfruit cheesecake, you better take a bite. Or five.
“How many other people work in the kitchen?” I asked Gaby and Marta. They looked at each other and laughed. “It’s just us,” Gaby said. “I cook the lunch shift, and then mom comes in for dinner.” If Carlitos is the face of the restaurant, Marta and Gaby are the heart.
Sure, prices are higher than other casual bodegones in the city. And no, this isn’t a bodegón with a phone book-sized menu serving hundreds of dish options to the masses. The place is small, intimate, filled with regular clients and eccentric characters, and most importantly, shows diners what Italian-Porteño food is all about. I sure hope the Zinola familia will keep their legacy alive for another 48 years.
Don Carlos
Brandsen 699, La Boca
Tuesday – Saturday, 12pm – 4pm & 8pm – close. Closed on La Boca game days.
Telephone: 4362-2433
Average price per person: $600-850 pesos
No website, no social media
Agos says
LOVE passionfruit cheesecake and that one looks ridiculous. But I wouldn’t say it’s very bodegon-y.