Hey strangers! It’s been a while, but I’m coming back to my roots, baby! I started this little food blog at the end of 2009 as a way to share some of my favorite edible discoveries in Argentina, a time when it wasn’t so easy to find out about delicious things to eat and the stories behind them. Oh girl, have things changed! (Sup, Instagram?).
I could give a zillion excuses of why I haven’t updated PUTF in years, but who wants to hear about that? Instead, I imagine you’re reading this to find out some serious data about where to go out to eat in Buenos Aires. So, without further ado, and in no particular order, I have compiled an exhaustive, exhausting, and utterly overwhelming list of notable openings within the last 18-ish months.
Buckle your seat belts and unbuckle your pants, because there has never been a more exciting time to eat in Buenos Aires until now.
Anchoíta – Juan Ramirez de Velasco 1520, Villa Crespo
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Despite his past lives as a pilot, actor, doctor, director, and activist, serial entrepreneur Enrique Piñeyro takes on a new vocation, which he claims to be his most challenging role yet: restaurateur and chef. The wood bar wraps around the entire kitchen and acts as a stage at the center of the industrial-style restaurant (fun fact: back in the day it was a sewing machine factory). This is the type of place I want to visit again and again, trying all the crudos, grilled meats, river fish, pasta, and insane cheese selection. Word to the wise: It can be a challenge to get a reservation, but star sommelier and head of FOH Valeria Mortara says if you come early or late (kitchen closes at 1am), and don’t mind waiting, there will probably be space at the bar. $$$
Sacro – Costa Rica 6038, Palermo
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Sure, we all know Buenos Aires is one of the meatiest cities on the planet, but now, more than ever, we are craving veggie-friendly options. And not just faux burgers and chorizos made with imitation meat. Sacro’s sleek digs next to the Casa Sur hotel appeal to both the vegan and carnivorous crowds in search of creative and flavorful plant-based dishes. Chef Maximiliano Rossi is in the kitchen coming up with creations like avocado masala, dosa, almond ricotta gnudi, jackfruit baos, and avocado key lime pie. Another plus? All of the wines are natural, organic, and biodynamic. $$$$
Julia – Loyola 807, Villa Crespo
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When the beautifully presented dishes hit the table, I would have never known there was only one man in the kitchen. Julio Báez wore many hats that night I first tried Julia, his debut 22-seat restaurant named after his daughter, playing sous chef, line cook, dishwasher, and runner. Highlights included tartare topped in a layer of smoked butter shavings, rib eye with black and white garlic puré, and longaniza sausage, sourced from Chacabuco, Báez’s hometown. With so many restaurants opening under the assistance of big-time investors, it’s refreshing to see unpretentious projects that focus on the important stuff: seasonality, flavor, technique, and ingredients. $$$
Atelier Fuerza 2 – Delgado 1461, Colegiales
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Fran Seubert is not just a guy who bakes bread, he’s a leader in a movement of young bakers reinventing what the artisan la panadería argentina is all about. With two AF locations, and more in the works, it’s easier to get incredible sourdough, chipa, and medialunas. Just make sure to go early, because the bread and pastries at this *mostly* take-away bakery sell out fast. $
Taquería Díaz – Patio de los Lecheros, Caballito
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Tacos are definitely having a moment in Buenos Aires, and for that, we can thank a small community of Mexi-transplants who have brought real soulful flavors of Mexico (plus, we have easier access to real nixtamalized corn tortillas). Francisco Gómez ate his share of tacos when he hosted the Munchies docu-series Todos los Tacos. Now, he took everything he learned from Mexico’s best taquerías and is making his own version in Caballito’s favorite outdoor food hall, Patio de los Lecheros. $
Sampa – Scalabrini Ortíz 769, Villa Crespo
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Argentina has great produce, and it also has an impressive grilling culture, but rarely do those two worlds collide. For years I’ve been hoping someone would open a vegan parrilla, dreaming of a vegetable-centric grill that cooks mostly plants on the barbecue. So imagine my joy when I walked inside Sampa, sat at the bar that wraps around the open kitchen, and feasted my eyes on a paradise for veggie lovers: a grill covered in all sorts of organic vegetables. $$
Tintorería Yafuso – Velasco 399, Villa Crespo
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Last year the dry cleaner on the corner of Velasco and Araoz closed after more than 30 years of business. Then, Fabián Yafuso suddenly re-opened his family’s tintorería, this time as a 10-seat Japanese restaurant. Clothing hangers line the ceilings and national Argentine rock music plays as Fabián makes dishes like grilled fish, tempura, and the freshest sushi and sashimi platters, using a wide variety of fish and seafood not typically used in most sushi establishments (you aren’t going to see any salmon with cream cheese rolls here). Reservations are made months in advance, making it the hardest table to snag in Buenos Aires, so plan accordingly. $$$
Royal Mansion – Mendoza 1598, Barrio Chino
REAL DIM SUM IN BUENOS AIRES! Dim sum is one of my favorite things on this earth, but it was never an easy thing to come by in BA. Now we all have easy access to endless baskets of dumplings and steamed buns at Royal Mansion.
Obrador – Charlone 202, Chacarita
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Obrador is the place that you wish you had in your neighborhood… and luckily, since I’m currently living in ‘Rita*, I have it a few blocks away. Do I need a relaxed never-fail lunch spot? Obrador. Am I in the mood for 5 o’clock somewhere aperitivo hour drinks and live music? Obrador. Or maybe I have a hot dinner date? Obrador can always be the answer to the “where should we go eat and drink?” question. $$
*’Rita is short for Chacarita, of course! I’m making the nickname Rita happen and I don’t care what you say about it.
El Preferido de Palermo – Jorge Luis Borges 2108, Palermo
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It was a sad day when El Preferido de Palermo, an iconic Palermo bodegón established in 1952, shuttered. Luckily, it reopened under the careful eye of Don Julio Parrilla restaurateur Pablo Rivero, who not only refurbished the entire space but called on chefs Guido Tassi and Martin Lukesch to run the kitchen. Try upgraded Porteño comfort foods like milanesa with extra crispy fries and all the house-made charcuterie. $$$
Narda Comedor Diario – Nicaragua 6055, Palermo Hollywood
The newest member of the Narda Comedor family has arrived to Palermo Hollywood. In good Narda fashion, the all-day spot (open every day from 8am – 8pm) serves an eclectic range of internationally inspired dishes, always with a focus on fresh ingredients and layers of flavors and textures. The bread and pastries are some of the best in the city.
Chancho Chico – Cabrera 6085, Palermo Hollywood
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The butcher shop for all your porktastic needs moved to a new Palermo Hollywood location and serves daily fast-food lunch dishes choripán, hot dogs, meatball subs, and shawarma. If you’re lucky, Victoria Vago will butcher your pork, one of the few female butchers in the male-dominated field. $
Corte Comedor – Olazábal 1395, Belgrano
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We all know Argentina is a carnivorous country, so it was a big deal when Corte butcher shop opened an adjacent restaurant during mid-2018. Even though Uruguayan chef (and Francis Mallmann disciple) Santiago Garat constantly changes the menu, you can expect him to masterfully serve sirloin, skirt steak, ribeye, pork loin, and homemade chorizos straight from the front-and-center parrilla. $$$
Strange Brewing – Delgado 658, Colegiales
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I know, I know, you know-it-alls, even though Strange Brewing isn’t new (it opened in 2017), the food keeps getting better and better thanks to Max Carnage and a crew of talented cooks. Empanadas, osso buco grilled cheese, and a supreme towering plate of nachos make Strange my top choice for best bar food in the entire Capital Federal. Plus, their Tres Tristes Hefeweizen and redes sociales are both pure forms of poetry. $$
FaSongSong – Esmeralda 993, Centro
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I’ve said it many times before, Buenos Aires has some of the best Korean food outside of Korea. No longer do we need to venture on a field trip to Flores to eat great Korean. FaSongSong is a fast food concept that makes one helluva bulgogi, bimbimbap, and tteokbokki. $$
Ronconcon – Beauchef 527, Caballito
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A very welcomed addition to Caballito, Ronconcon puts a fun spin on Venezuelan classics. Don’t miss the asado negro, patacones, and tiki cocktails. $$
Sifón Soderia – Jorge Newbery 3881, Chacarita
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All soda water, all the time. Blue sunken lawn chairs line the entrance to this seltzer-centric spot on Newbery, which is all about Cinzano and soda, and also serves some of the finest fried osso buco empanadas around. $$
Beba – Mercado de San Telmo, San Telmo
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For better and worse, Mercado de San Telmo has seen quite the change over the last few years. While it might not need another unoriginal burger and beer bar, let’s hope we see more propuestas like Beba: simple and delicious Argentine comfort foods with a relaxed and laid-back vibe. $$
Ulúa – Jorge Newbery 3791, Chacarita
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Living in ‘Rita has many perks. A major one: Mexican delights and mezcal. The heart of the Ulúa crew is from Veracruz, Mexico, and their specialties are tacos, gorditas, tetelas, chilaquiles, and sopa azteca. $$
Apu Nena – Dorrego 1401, Villa Crespo/Chacarita
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You may know Christina Sunae from Sunae Asian Cantina, arguably the city’s best restaurant for Southeast Asian food. Now, she has brought together her A-team for an Asian tapas bar on the border of Villa Crespo and Chacarita. $$$
Rollin Lui – Aguirre 601, Villa Crespo
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I’ve been a major fan of Rollin Lui since it first opened in Chacarita. Today, they bring their affordable and healthy Middle Eastern-style falafel wraps and salads to Villa Crespo. $
Aramburu & Aramburu Bis – Vicente López 1661, Recoleta
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After 13 years in Constitución, Chef Gonzalo Aramburu packed up his restaurants and moved to one of the prettiest pasajes in Recoleta. While Aramburu still serves its tasting menu, Bis shows its more casual bistro side with a brunch, lunch, and dinner a la carte menu. $$$-$$$$
Mian – Mendoza 1629, Barrio Chino/Belgrano
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My favorite Chinatown spot has moved from a tiny hole-in-the-wall to a bigger and better space. It’s the place to tuck into giant bowls of noodle soups and top-notch dumplings. THE order: 5B with mandioca noodles and steamed dumplings. $
Donut Therapy – Thames 1999, Palermo Soho
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When you have the craving for real handmade USA (and Venezuelan) style donuts in Buenos Aires, look no further. At Donut Therapy, there are more than 15 flavors that are constantly changing like Boston Cream, Banana Caramel, Tres Leches, Strawberries and Cream, and Guayaba and Queso. Full disclosure: I’m totally biased since I’m a socia in this donut biz. $
Namu – Cabrera 5600, Palermo Hollywood
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On the corner of Cabera and Fitz Roy you’ll find this cheerful spot making home-cooked Korean wonders. Most of the dishes come with an unlimited assortment of banchan, including excellent kimchi. My favorite thing to order? Spicy sopa de kimchi y tofu.
PIZZA
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In the first episode of an Argentina food podcast Daniel Politi and I started and never continued last year, we discussed how pizza would be the NEXT BIG FOOD TREND in Buenos Aires. Now, we have proof in the form of many great new cheesy options:
- Former Cosi Mi Piace owner and chef, Rodrigo Sieiro, opened up Soler Pizza Vino, and from the name, and since you got smarts, I bet you can guess the location, and what you eat and drink there: thin-crust Roman-style pizza and wine.
- Zona Norte folks now can munch on Italian-style pizza at Orno, which called upon the master Peruvian baker Renato Peralta to create the recipe for the dough.
- Atte Pizzería over in Hollywood also had a pro consultant for their Neapolitan pizzeria: Roberta’s in NYC alum Anthony Falco.
- It was about time for Belgrano to have more great pizza options, and much of that is thanks to hole-in-the-wall La Fina.
- Over on Gorriti, the to-cool-for-school gang at Local Support has shifted its focus from coffee to Italian-style pizzas.
- Authentic Neapolitan-style at De Rosa Pizzeria.
- Pony Pizza, right behind the Belgrano train station, isn’t so new, but I’ve never written about it before, and it’s my go-to for delivery. This potente pizzería definitely deserves a creepy slow-motion Olsen Twins gimme P-I-Z-Z-A shout out.
- And we all need to wish a very happy 80th cumple to the Great Lord Emperor of the Fugazetta, the one and only, La Mezzetta.
COFFEE SHOPS
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Flat whites have invaded barrios (mostly Palermo) near and far, marking a great moment for specialty coffee shops and avocado smothered sourdough toasts. Some of my favorite Freshmen-ish openings:
- The new bigger and better Cuervo Cafe.
- Malcriada (word on the street is that they serve the best cheesecake of the city).
- Revolver clothing brand turned RVR café.
- Bright and airy Rebelión, on one of the cutest corners in Soho.
- Australian-inspired Surry Hills.
- Cool and comfortable Stracqua in Hollywood.
- Marte in ‘Rita with books and cassettes and buena onda.
- Korean goodness at Maum, they also have a Korean restaurant (with kimbap) that looks legit. It’s located in the best area for Korean food in the city.
- Iced coffee perfection at Mulata.
- By day, Jaam in San Telmo specializes in coffee (and some vegan dishes), by night, it serves a multi-course vegan menu.
- Specialty coffee OG Lattente’s new Las Cañitas location.
- Mola, an entirely plant-based vegan coffee shop.
- I want to send a special shout out to all the bares tradicionales because you need to know that you are still the one I choose for a tostado con jamón y queso and a fresh-squeezed jugo de naranja. I just wish you served better coffee, that’s all. Also, for those amantes of old school Porteño cafés, I highly recommend following @Bardeviejes.
BARS
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We don’t have to dumb ourselves down to papas con cheddar anymore, because many bars have upped their food game.
- 3 Monos, everyone’s favorite bar on Palermo’s side of Thames.
- Every month Nilson changes the carefully selected wine list to feature a handful of Argentina’s best bottles, which are available by the glass. Plus two words: CHEESE PLATE.
- High in the sky, we can finally have a drink with a great view of BA at Trade Sky Bar.
- Put on your favorite Hawaiian shirt and get laid at Oh No Lulu, Villa Crespo’s first tiki bar.
- The national library has a new greenhouse gin bar at Invernadero.
- Order the Fernet at the incredibly designed La Favorita Cantina and you’ll thank me later.
So much to eat, so little time! Sometimes it’s not possible to eat everything in sight. I haven’t had a chance to try these new restaurants yet, but they are on my pending list to visit:
- Omakase by Kuda
- Vallegrande
- Mr Ho
- Revuelta
- Neko Sushi
- Casa Barro
- I Due Briganti Rotiseria Italiana
- Zuti
- Sastrería Canning
- Tora
- Jornal
- Amaro Hermanos
- Tigre Morado
- Tomahawk Carnes
- Big Pons
- The new Anafe, due to open in February 2020
CliffsNotes Cheat Sheet
- Anchoíta – Juan Ramirez de Velasco 1520, Villa Crespo
- Sacro – Costa Rica 6038, Palermo
- Julia – Loyola 807, Villa Crespo
- Atelier Fuerza 2 – Delgado 1461, Colegiales
- Taquería Díaz – Patio de los Lecheros, Caballito
- Sampa – Scalabrini Ortíz 769, Villa Crespo
- Narda Comedor Diario – Nicaragua 6055, Palermo Hollywood
- Royal Mansion – Mendoza 1598, Barrio Chino
- Obrador – Charlone 202, Chacarita
- El Preferido de Palermo – Jorge Luis Borges 2108, Palermo
- Chancho Chico – Cabrera 6085, Palermo Hollywood
- Corte Comedor – Olazábal 1395, Belgrano
- Tintorería Yafuso – Velasco 399, Villa Crespo
- Strange Brewing – Delgado 658, Colegiales
- FaSongSong – Esmeralda 993, Centro
- Ronconcon – Beauchef 527, Caballito
- Sifon Soderia – Jorge Newbery 3881, Chacarita
- Beba – Mercado de San Telmo, San Telmo
- Ulúa – Jorge Newbery 3791, Chacarita
- Apu Nena – Dorrego 1301, Villa Crespo/Chacarita
- Rollin Lui – Aguirre 601, Villa Crespo
- Aramburu & Aramburu Bis – Vicente López 1661, Recoleta
- Donut Therapy – Thames 1999, Palermo Soho
- Namu – Cabrera 5600, Palermo Hollywood
- Soler Pizza Vino – Soler 4201, Palermo
- Orno – Corrientes 402, Olivos
- Atte Pizzeria – El Salvador 6016, Palermo Hollywood
- La Fina – José Hernández 1395, Belgrano
- De Rosa – Costa Rica 5480, Palermo Hollywood
- Local Support – Gorriti 5045, Palermo Soho
- Pony Pizza – Echeverría 1677, Belgrano
- Cuervo Café – Costa Rica 5801, Palermo Hollywood
- Malcriada – Bonpland 1367, Palermo Hollywood
- RVR Café – Malabia 1150, Villa Crespo
- Mola – El Salvador 5747, Palermo Hollywood
- Rebelión – Gurruchaga 1795, Palermo Soho
- Surry Hills – Borges 1842, Palermo Soho
- Stracqua – Cabrera 5939, Palermo Hollywood
- Marte – Dorrego 1470, Chacarita
- Maum – Ruperto Godoy 709, Flores
- Lattente – Migueletes 509, Las Cañitas
- Mulata – Guatemala 4602, Palermo Soho
- 3 Monos – Guatemala 4899, Palermo Soho
- Nilson – Carlos Calvo 463, San Telmo
- Trade Sky Bar – Corrientes 222, Centro
- Oh No Lulu – Aráoz 1019, Villa Crespo
- Invernadero – Agüero 2502, Recoleta
- La Favorita Cantina – Honduras 5288, Palermo Soho
PENDING LIST:
- Revuelta – Gurruchaga 2121, Palermo Soho
- Omakase by Kuda – Paraguay 3521, Palermo
- Vallegrande – Freire 1229, Colegiales
- Mr Ho – Paraguay 884, Centro
- Neko Sushi – Velasco 471, Villa Crespo
- Casa Barro – Nicaragua 4618, Palermo
- I Due Briganti Rotiseria Italiana – Austria 2287, Recoleta
- Žuti – Honduras 5615, Palermo Hollywood
- Sastrería Canning – Scalabrini Ortiz 535, Villa Crespo
- Tora – Cabello 3788, Palermo Botanico
- Jornal – García del Río 2802, Saavedra
- Amaro Hermanos – 11 de Septiembre de 1888 4202, Nuñez
- Tigre Morado – Ravignani 1691, Palermo Hollywood
- Tomahawk Carnes – El Salvador 6002, Palermo Hollywood
- Big Pons – Fitz Roy 1731, Palermo Hollywood
What am I missing? Because I know ya’ll will probably tell me even if I don’t ask. Let us know about your favorite new-ish openings in Buenos Aires.
Gustavo says
Welcome back!
Tom Roth says
Welcome back!
Tommy says
You are the best
Agus says
te amo fuerte
Pablo says
OH MY GOD YOU’RE BACK! Happy New Year indeed.
Fran says
Can’t believe there’s nothing new in almagro, i’m tired of going to chacarita