I wrote this article about Sarkis a few years ago and never published it. But, today I’m feeling nostaglic for big crowds at busy restaurants, so somehow it feels fitting to share. Sarkis is currently offering delivery & takeaway during the quarantine.
If you ever stood outside the corner of Thames and Jufré waiting over an hour for a table, you have already completed the first stage of the Sarkis Experience. The 260-seat Armenian restaurant on the Villa Crespo-Palermo border is open every day, for lunch and dinner, and almost always packed to capacity. Many will quibble whether or not Sarkis serves the best Middle Eastern food in the city, but I’m not going to engage in that debate because it is irrelevant. As one of BA’s most iconic restaurants, it deserves our respect and accolades.
It was said that Carlos “Sarkis” Katabian would walk around Sarkis in slippers, a sleeveless button up shirt barely buttoned, chest hair protruding out, and slightly leaning to one side since his back pocket was filled with a George Costanza-exploding wallet. Before he opened Sarkis in BA, he owned “Raviolandia” in Mar del Plata.
The Sarkis postcard on my fridge
Not much has changed since (the late) Carlos “Sarkis” Katabian first opened shop in 1982 to serve mezze plates and grilled kebabs. It was said that he’d walk around the then, nameless spot in no man’s land one block from Córdoba Avenue, in slippers, a sleeveless button up shirt barely buttoned, chest hair protruding out, and slightly leaning to one side since his back pocket was filled with a George Costanza-like exploding wallet. In that era, Sarkis had only ten tables, but focused on the same concept as today: the foods and flavors of Armenia, sold at affordable prices, and for the whole family to enjoy.
If you are a Sarkis virgin there are a few important things you should know. First of all, unless you have a reservation, or arrive at 7:45pm, eat a snack prior to arrival to avoid hanger pains because you will probably have to wait. Hot tip #1 for the crowd-o-phobics: go to Sarkis for a weekday lunch (rarely a wait) or for a late dinner (10:45 pm). OR be smart (like me) and skip the line, hang a right to the cashier, order to go, and re-work the dishes at home.
Second thing you should keep in mind: Sarkis is almost always bumping and bustling. It’s a lively family restaurant with screaming children and screaming elderly (their hearing isn’t the same as it used to be). It’s where you’d go with your big fat Argentine-Armenian family to celebrate your Great Aunt Berta’s 73rd, so don’t be alarmed when you hear the “Happy Birthday” song playing every 40 minutes. (The recording might even be sung in a sped-up Mickey Mouse squeak, but I could have made that up.)
Service at Sarkis is fast, efficient, and sometimes grumpy. Don’t expect service with a smile, unless you’re a regular. Waiters here mean serious business, like “El Chino” Guzmán, who has worked at Sarkis since 1986 and whips in and out of the kitchen, with five plates balanced on one arm, stopping at the cashier to register each table’s order as it comes out of the kitchen. (When you pick up a to-go order, I highly recommend paying attention to the waiter-cashier interaction as the food leaves the kitchen just to witness their incredible speed and skill.) Hot tip #2: Stay out of the waiters’ way. You don’t want a collision in the middle of the dining room. Trust me. I’m still recovering after the Great Hummus Debacle of ’09.
Sarkis is one of those restaurants where it’s important to know what to order. The menu is long, separated into two categories: cold appetizers and warm main dishes. Most things on the menu are available in full or half orders. Hot tip #3: the English menu doesn’t include prices, so even though it’s quite affordable, ask for a menu in Spanish as a reference.
The Order
If you’re not a Sarkis regular, here’s a quick guide of my favorite dishes. I live NEXT DOOR to Sarkis (my terrace view is their roof, and I see/smell the wafts of grill smoke pouring out of the chimney and into my house everyday), so I feel confident that I have perfected my Sarkis order. Fun fact: I have spotted random things on the Sarkis roof, including single shoes, pillows, and, on separate occasions (months apart), a mannequin head and a mannequin body.
ENSALADA BELÉN
I’m not quite sure why this is called Bethlehem’s salad, but I’m happy it was invented. Thick cuts of roasted eggplant are mixed with zucchini, red pepper, sweet yellow raisins, and crunchy toasted almonds. This is my favorite thing on the entire menu because I love every component on its own, and even more all together. I always get the full order, and sometimes an extra one so I don’t have to share.
SARAWAK 
I’m not the biggest fan of the falafel at Sarkis. It tastes fine, but the pink peanut sauce might not please falafel fundamentalists who frequent the Middle East. I have discovered, however, the SARAWAK, which is served below the falafel and also can be ordered as a stand alone dish. The lightly pickled cabbage salad is crisp and acidic, a palate-cleansing must on the table.
This is the falafel I’m talking about. It’s nicely spiced and fried well, but not a must for me.
MUYATRA
A unique mixture of sautéed bulgur wheat, lentils, fried pita croutons and a tower of fried onions. I’ve never seen this dish anywhere else, and it’s insanely addictive.
PURÉ DE BERENJENA (BABAGANOUSH) AND/OR BERENJENA FRITA
While hummus is probably the most popular dish at Sarkis, I tend to skip the tahini-free garbanzo puré* and stick with the babaganoush eggplant mash. If you’re in a greasy mood, all you oily aubergine lovers and dreamers out there should instead try the fried eggplant with parsley and garlic. Fun fact: Sarkis says they use 60 kilos of eggplant a day, and you can insert your own eggplant emoji joke because I couldn’t come up with a good one.
*Hummus fanatics beware: tahini is expensive in Argentina, so it’s generally not added to hummus. I know, it’s a shanda. Instead, many restaurants substitute with an odd mixture of peanut butter and/or sesame oil. At Sarkis, they also tend to garnish the hummus with low-quality oil and minerva fake lemon juice extract, so if you’re gonna order it, tell them to hold the excess aceite and ask for a lemon wedge instead.
JAMBRA
Roasted red pepper puré with garlic, walnuts and grape seed oil. Toss a little salt on top and dip your pita inside all night long.
TABULE / TABBOULEH
I’m talking bulgur wheat salad raining in parsley, green onions, and tomatoes. If you are ordering Sarkis for take away, a tabbouleh, ensalada belén and jambra inside a toasted pita is fiesta time. I also usually combine it with a homemade chopped tomato and cucumber salad since sometimes it can be heavy on the verdeo.
LABAN / MADZUN / YAYIK 
Depending what your lactose poison may be, any of these milky/yogurt/cheese dishes are for you (except the feta, don’t go there, it’s not what you’re expecting). Laban is the thick yogurt, almost mascarpone cheese-like, while madzun has a liquid buttermilky consistency. If you are feeling adventurous, order the yayik, which is like raita with cucumber, garlic, and mint. Note: all of the grilled completo shish kebabs and the manté come with yogurt sauce, so no need to order it separately.
EMPANADA LASMAYIN
Some call it an empanada arabe others lachmayin, but I like to think of this as a cheese-less Middle Eastern meatza (get it? meat+pizza). It’s basically a flat dough topped with seasoned sweet tomato-y ground beef. Squeeze a lemon on top and you got a winning dish. I’d highly recommend to order extra because it’s a great snack, just make sure to crisp it up in the oven before consumption. *This is a terrible photo that doesn’t do it justice, but it’s very tasty.*
MANTE
I lurrrrrrve mante! Think baby dumpling/tortellini stuffed with seasoned beef, crisped on a cast iron pan, and cooked in broth. Then, instead of sauce, it’s served with a massive goblet of yogurt on the side.
ON THE GRILL: POLLO AL FIERRITO COMPLETO / KAFTA AL FIERRITO COMPLETO / KAFTA DE CORDERO COMPLETO // VEGETALES AL FIERRITO 
Let’s move along to the grill for a smokey second. Sarkis offers several skewered variations of chicken, beef and lamb kebabs. The chicken comes in brochettes with charred onions and tomatoes while the beef and lamb can be prepared with pieces of meat brochettes or ground meat/lamb skewered and then grilled. My favorites? Chicken al fierrito, ground beef kafta or ground lamb kafta. Vegetarians: you can order the vegetables skewered on the grill. 
If you ask for any of the above completo, they will douse it all in yogurt sauce and served on top of fried pita bread.
BAKLAVA / MAMUL / KADAIF
Bring on the filo dough drenched in honey and pistachio and the shortbread pastries!
COPA SARKIS
Photo: Los Arys
Are you looking for a dessert that will make your food ‘gram explode? Order the Copa Sarkis and you may seriously break the Instagramz. It’s a sticky situation with overflowing scoops of chocolate and vanilla ice cream that are smothered in Tia María liqueur, walnuts and chocolate sauce. If you are into coffee for dessert, make sure to save your grinds for the fortune teller to read your future.
More on Sarkis: There have been a few excellent profiles on Sarkis, including in La Nación by Agustina Canaparo, Planeta Joy by Claudio Weissfeld, and InfoBae by Julián Zocchi.
Personal note: Sarkis in Buenos Aires has no relation to the wonderful Sarkis Café in Evanston, Illinois — which holds a very special place in my high school stoner girl heart. For all you North Shorers, I got two words for you: BACON LORETTA.
Sarkis
Thames 1101, Villa Crespo
Monday-Sunday: 12pm-23hs
Tel. 4772-4911 / 4776-8619 / 11-3508-3875
Average price: $650 pesos per person (May 2020)
Sarkis is offering delivery & takeaway during the quarantine.